The Military or Combat Boot
DJ Whitney Day in military inspired boots. Photo by Kevin Thomas Garcia
Anita Dolce Vita: My girl is not a fan of the traditional combat boot; she is short and super thin and feels that her frame is overwhelmed by their chunkiness. For those who have similar complaints, I recommend modern, military inspired versions, such as Steve Madden’s Tarney, Ladiluck, and Jaax (women’s sizes 5.5-10); ALDO’s Hoffine (women’s sizes 5-11); and Seychelles Jungle two-toned boots (women’s sizes 6-9.5). These types of boots have thinner soles and often times come with really cool embellishments like rock-n-roll studding or knit legwarmers. However, these boots may lack the durability of a classic Doc Marten. Doc Marten does have some pretty dapper boots out this season, including their Pendletons (women’s sizes 5-11), which have a decorative woven-wool side panel.
Whether you go classic or reinvented, military boots look best with pants that are bunched/cuffed or directly tucked into the boot. Add a tailored peacoat for a dapper look or a leather jacket for an urban chic look.
Ariel recommends: The Doc Marten has been my #1 boot in this department for years — since I was 16 and putting glitter nail polish on the soles. I’ve had my current pair patched and resoled and they are still my go-to when I need to climb around in a theater or do some muck work around the house…or look tough and casual even while I’m working the nerd. They’re total classics. I like the 10-eye cap toe; I think the toe detail gives them a little more versatility.
Your local army-navy surplus store probably has these in a wide variety of styles and they’re probably cheaper than civilian brands. They’ll also generally have a huge variety of sizes.
Combat boots. via: Framing Doors
Joelle Zigman recommends: Is it sad that when I saw this masculine boot idea for the first time and the first thing I thought was Doc Marten? Then I was like, “Nah, that’s too gay for words.” Thanks, Ariel, for the vindication.
The Cold Weather & Snow Boot
Duck boots. via: GQ
Ariel recommends: For days where I can remain stylish, the L.L. Bean Duck Boot is my boot of choice. I like them unlined because I can adjust my socks accordingly. For days where it is sheer snow utilitarianism, I love these giant Kamik boots I got on clearance at Zappos. They are heavy and they won’t take any crap from snow. Tuck your pants in and go for a run (a very slow, heavy-booted run). I imagine these boots will outlast me.
Mr. Rachel Tutera recommends: I like Blundstones as a winter option for folks who are in the mood to take a break from wearing duck boots. There’s the classic weather-proof Blundstone (aka Blunnies), which, although Australian sizing is complicated, come in sizes smaller than a men’s 7. Since they’re pretty unisex-looking, folks can order a women’s pair, which come in as small as a 6. They’re expensive, but they’ll also keep your feet warm and dry and last you at least half your lifetime. There’s also this Timberland Earthkeepers Alpine boot which can be a hiking boot or a winter boot. As always experimentation with lace color is an option; most commonly people have red laces on this style.
Anita Dolce Vita recommends: I’m a stickler about investing in a quality winter boot. The North Face Snowtropolis boot is pricey, but a stylish alternative to a duck boot. These can be dressed up or down, dapper (with fancy trousers and a bow tie) or hipster (with skinny jeans and a leather jacket). Keens Snowmass leather waterproof boots are half the price and are versatile as well.
The Desert Boot & The Chukka Boot
Anita Dolce Vita recommends: As Put This On says, “All desert boots are chukkas, not all chukkas are desert boots.” We could write a thesis on any one style of shoe, but in short:
+ Desert boots = soft (usually suede) lace-up with a crepe rubber sole.
+ Chukka boots = more substantial lace-up with a leather sole.
Anna Barsan in chukka boots and invisible socks. Photo by Blake Barsan via: dapperQ
Yes, Clarks have given the chukka/desert boot a bad name. But, in my opinion, the style of these boots is not the problem; the problem is the way outfits have been traditionally styled around these boots. Desert/chukkas boots can be downright super-duper dandy urban preppy and are perfect for masculine presenting folks who want a comfortable shoe option that is dressier than a sneaker. You can wear desert/chukka boots with a pair of dandy socks (see how to rock patterned socks here) or, if you live in a warmer climate, you can still get to play around with some fall/winter fashion by ditching the thicker socks and wearing a pair Falke’s invisible socks instead.
Desert Boot with socks. via: Weavers Door
For a more rugged look, try a thicker, more substantial chukka boot. Either way, I think chukka/desert books look best when your pants are cuffed/rolled up.
Mr. Rachel Tutera. via: dapperQ
Ariel recommends: I have been learning about the chukka this year as I consider my winter shoe options. I am not a huge fan of the classic chukka (think Clark’s Desert Boot, the shoe that started it all), but I like the kind with the embroidered/raised toe. These are great casual shoes, and if you play it right they can also go well with a blazer and nicer pants.
Mr. Rachel Tutera recommends: I’m really into the Timberland 7 Eye Chukkas (smallest size is men’s 7, which is a women’s 9). They come in two handsome colors.
The Cowboy Boot
Cowboy boots give a vintage inspired, frontier vibe. via: Jeremy and Kathleen
Joelle Zigman recommends: As dapperQ’s resident Texan, I have to say that western boots are probably the least practical of all the boots. They are not well-suited for rain or snow or even keeping you warm. But if you’re on the short side they might add a few extra inches of height, as well as some sexy Cowboi appeal. You could probably devote your whole life to the art of buying western boots (and several people do), because there are so many factors involved. You can make them out of the hide of any animal from eel to ostrich to rattlesnake to buffalo (for the animal lovers out there, Charlotte Russe has a decent, $43 faux-leather boot in women’s sizes 5-11). They come in pointed, square, or round toe. They can be anywhere from 3″-15″ tall. They have a price ceiling of tens of thousands of dollars for a custom boot, and a solid pair of top-of-the-line Stetson boots can run you anywhere between $300-500, which is a little impractical for a baby butch like me.
But here’s the thing about western boots: they are beautiful. Stitching is an art-form. A western boot should feel like a work of art and should be worn as such. That’s why I’m not gonna recommend one single boot. The boot should be an expression of your tastes, and your style, so play around. The best way to find your perfect fit is to go to a boot store, but since those are hard to come by on the coasts, I’m a big fan of Sheplers. Don’t be afraid to buy kid’s shoes if the men’s shoe sizes are too big. Leather boots stretch over time so it’s advisable to buy them a bit snug.
Also, dust is a Cowboi’s worst enemy. Dust on western boots can settle into the crevices and wear down the leather over time. So please, wipe off your boots every time you take them off.
Anita Dolce Vita recommends: As a native New Mexican, I agree with everything Joelle said. Growing up in the 505, there was never a short of cowboy boot stores that catered to the Southwestern styles. When I moved to NYC in 1999, I had to get accustomed to urban interpretations of western footwear.
Modern urban cowboy look. Via: Outrageous
If you want to pull off an urban version but are not into the classic cowboy boot, try ankle length cowboy boots with city touches, like punk studding.
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Having big feet is finally paying off. Thanks for this article!
I just wanted to disagree strongly that cowboy boots are impractical! I wear mine all the time in rain/snow/sleet and they are wonderful.
I should also add that they are coral pink, so maybe my idea of practical is bit, ummm, different than this post’s, as “heels lower than 3 inches” is also a qualification for practical. Retiring to my femme corner now.
I tip my cowboi hat to you in awe.
My problem with boots is two-fold:
1. I have really muscular calves. The problem with knee-high boots is obvious, but also! boots that are meant to hit just below my calves most often make my legs look like un-curvaceous trees. So I usually have to go with wide-calf tall boots or ankle boots.
2. I have an unusually high instep. This is a problem often with pull-on boots, but often means I can’t buy boots online since that isn’t a measurement they give. Unless someone with similar feet happens to have written a review and mentions it. Bah.
But I love boots! And I love all of these boots! I may be feminine-of-center in most of my wardrobe, but my feet are totes masculine. Time for a trip to DSW!
“I may be feminine-of-center in most of my wardrobe, but my feet are totes masculine”
Me too :)
Mee three!!
Four :)
I also like to disagree that chunky boots are too overwhelming on teeny, tiny girls because that´s never the case. It´s always super cute. Always! Especially with flowery dresses, rain coats, skinny jeans, boifriend jeans, cargo pants, hot pants and actually everything I can think of – no matter if on femmes or androgynous ladys.
Shit yes. I break fashion rules constantly, and this is one of the main ones I like to give the finger to. :)
Oh no! I was not trying to “you shouldn’t wear…” anyone. My girl just personally doesn’t like the way chunky boots look/feel on her own body and felt left out of the whole combat boot wearing thing until she found slimmer options. I was giving advice for folks who have the same complaint, but not saying teeny, tiny girls absolutely shouldn’t wear chunky shoes. If you like it, I love it!
I’m constantly surprised that people regard Doc Martens as a “gay thing”, since I go to this weird, artsy shool where every. single. person. owns a pair of Doc Martens. Good school?
The day that I found a brand-new-still-in-the-box pair of blue docs at a thrift store for $25, I nearly shat my pants. Plus, they were in my size! I LOVE DOCS. I am basically obsessed. I also have a pair of velvet ones (which probably aren’t practical at all) and a few other pairs but that’s because I often get lost and end up on the l on my way to the Dr. Marten’s store in Chicago…
I live in Europe (Poland) and anybody in this goddammit country would regard that docs are gay. NEVER. EVER. In my totally straight school (for 400 people only me and my girlfriend were gay) it was maybe 3/4 of students wearing classic martens (or maybe 3/4 of my school were secretly gay and I don’t know about it :P).
But this year I was in Berlin on German course with bunch of New Yorkers and I wore docs once without saying them anything. They quickly outed me ‘Oh, so you are lesbian, Barbara? – Yup, but how do you know? – Anybody who wears docs is gaaay’. I. WAS. TOTALLY. SHOCKED. Maybe it’s kinda west coast’s belief or something. If it’s true I’m ultra lezzie girl with my six pairs of martens.
I’m from Ireland and would have always thought of them as kinda artsy rather than gay, specially the brightly coloured ones.
Yeah I have to admit I’ve always thought of them as being more of an arty/hipster shoe than gay… I’m at art school at the moment and I see loads around, but having said that the only students with Docs popping into my mind are girls with cool sweaters and ALHs. I honestly don’t know if that’s a bias in who’s wearing the shoes or a bias in who I’m looking at!
In any case, I think I might be asking for a pair for Christmas this year…
I mostly just associate them with Daria and am constantly surprised they haven’t made their way into my wardrobe yet.
my winter look this year (and most of the year) is city-bound adirondack guide/lumberjack, so I’ve got an arsenal of work boots and vintage hiking boots that make me look fantabulous. when it comes to boots, you will see very high prices but please remember it is an INVESTMENT – if you buy cheap boots, they will not last and they will not keep your feet in good shape, especially if you’re in a high pedestrian area and walking everywhere (lookin’ at you, city dwellers). i have bought way too many pairs of h&m and asos boots that looked fantastic but lasted me a few months tops. and i expected that with a $20 price tag, but still. go for quality so you can wear them for multiple seasons without worrying about their wear and tear!
“city-bound adirondack guide/lumberjack”
that is what I would like to be in life.
I have 4 pairs of boots to match the seasons. Vintage brown leather Docs, brown leather Clark’s Desert Boots, brown leather insulated hiking boots, and army green canvas combat boots.
There is never a time where boots are not appropriate. So many different ways to wear them!
Also, as someone with smaller feet, I suggest trying brands like Bass and Clark that a) make boys shoes identical to men’s and/or 2) make women’s shoes identical to men’s. I have many pairs of shoes in general that I have found that way. A bonus is that kids shoes cost less, too!
Yes! Blundstones. These are amazing boots. You can get them in a few different colours, and there are different styles, too. I got the “chisel toe” style, so it has a slightly dressier feel than the rounded toe, and I wear these everywhere: grad school, work, bar, etc. And plus, for rainy-but-milder places (I’m from Vancouver) they are a great fall-into-winter boot because they protect your puddies from the rain while not overheating them, as big fur lined boots can sometimes do.
I was thinking about it, and I completely betrayed that I only really go to three places, didn’t I? Oh well. My Blunnies get me out and back again. :)
I totally wear my blundstones almost every day. To the same locations. In Vancouver. Are we the same person? (laughing)
I have two pairs – one run down, and one “fancy”/unscuffed. They are my “dress shoes” when I see counselling clients as a grad student.
In Vancouver at least they come across as being really gay, but also really artsy, hipster-ish, etc.
Blundstones, for sure. Comfortable, good looking, practical, and well made. You can stomp through soggy Vancouver puddles with those babies.
As an Aussie who doesn’t wear anything else and is doing her best to move to Vancouver this is music to my ears.
Mel, you’ll totes fit in here. Plus, we love Aussie accents here. Truth.
I went to visit an all-girls school near Boston just recently (Wellesley, woo!), and I got to sing in one of their acappella groups. I was just enjoying myself when this amazingly sexy butch girl swaggers in with her, of course, work boots on. I died. I might be ultra femme but I’m thinking I need some boots as of about yesterday.
We shared music, by the way.
Aww.
Girls.
And boots.
Pictures of girls – in – boots.
Feels like it´s sexy sunday already.
*swoon & melt away*
I just wish guys boots/shoes came in my size!!
I can go into about a million female shoe stores and not find one style that I would wear, but I walk into a men shoes store and swoon over nearly every pair. But do you think anything fits me without making my feet look like snow shoes? Nope…
Someone really needs to open a chain of lesbian clothing stores…
Boi style with female fit!
OMG SHOE PORN. Thank you Autostraddle/dapperQ.
If you absolutely cannot find boots in your size, military supply companies may be able to find you boots in your size, as the military has to be able to outfit *everyone*. They are not so much with the fashionable options, though.
Cole Haan just came out with ladies wingtips, and though they aren’t boots (they have chukkas, whhich are almost boots?), they definitely appeal to my desire for less-femmey shoes. Soo pricey, though.
( http://www.colehaan.com/colehaan/catalog/product.jsp?catId=100&productId=680925&productGroup=522634 )
Great article! I wonder if anyone has suggestions for vegans who do not wear leather? I have had a difficult time finding vegan boots that are not hundreds of dollars. I know Doc Martins have one pair of vegan boots…may have to give them a try. Thanks for any suggestions! :-)
Oh and I know Palladium Boots makes canvas/rubber boots but I have read some reviews saying they are uncomfortable. Anyone have experience with them?
Moo Shoes carries vegan boots and other masculine dress shoes:
http://www.mooshoes.com/index.php?c=2&display=all
Vegan options here…but they are UK based. I’ve just ordered a pair and they even ask you to send over an outline of your feet before they make them up…just to be sure you are getting the right fit.
http://greenshoes.co.uk
Yep, the Brits have the market cornered on vegan boots. (I rue the day Gripfast stopped making their vegan steeltoes.) I have a pair of these in black and they’re great! http://www.vegetarian-shoes.co.uk/mens___unisex_boots/vintage_boot_grey_/13737_p.html Not designed for heavy snow or anything, but you can use regular waterproofing spray on them and they’re ridiculously comfortable. Took no time to break in or anything — and they’re sleek enough to look good with nicer pants, too (or would if, in my case, I hadn’t worn them hiking a bunch of times and scuffed them all up). Recommended!
If anyone has non-leather serious snowboot ideas that aren’t 100% hideous, also, gimme gimme!
I will let you in on a little secret. As I travel the world, you often see me wearing flats or a tiny heel, but when the cameras come off, I love to rock my studded boots! Ever since I had lunch with Lil’ Wayne, I have been sold on the studded shoes. Perhaps I will reveal a lil somethin when I land in Australia today!
I am soon to be in dire need of actual winter boots, this article is most likely going to make me spend too much money and end up with all the boots
STACEY ADAMS MADISON BOOT (loves of my life)
Impossible to wear out, and they come in different colors. Brown is my fav.
http://www.amazon.com/Stacy-Adams-Mens-Madison-Brown/dp/B000FPZJ9M/ref=sr_1_3?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1352506377&sr=1-3&keywords=stacey+adams
Sebago and Vintage make excellent boots as well. Fantastic round-up!
Once upon a time, I saw this girl wearing the most amazing boots ever. They were black, about mid- calf, but so slouchy that they sort of hung around the ankles, and made of a leather looking material. They were cuffed in a way that makes you think of pirate boots, and they had the ring and three straps of motorcycle boots. She had decorated them with sea shells on one boot and a bandana on the other. I’ve wanted them ever since, but haven’t been able to find them ANYWHERE :(.
In a full-on boot hunt right now. Thanks for helping! I did get a hot pair of ‘fashionable doc’s’ last winter, but they were so uncomfortable, I had to send them back. I used to live in Doc Martins and Fluevogs back in the day. I love the little wingtips above to.
Most importantly, you have DJ WHITNEY DAY in the house!!! Love her!
When is that interview/article coming out? Seriously…Ladies, get on that – before or after her blow out at The Park on Thanksgiving Eve.
Done…Just got these: http://www.dmusastore.com/p-4715-nero.aspx
These are more classic, rather than the reinvented styles that tend to run more narrow.
I just bought these in Bianco – so nice! http://www.bianco.dk/webshop/produkt/til-hende/st%C3%B8vler/ankelst%C3%B8vler/toa-warm-boot/554483
I just ordered these:
http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/72423?feat=506588-GN2&page=women-s-100th-anniversary-maine-hunting-shoe&attrValue_0=Tan/Brick%20Red&productId=1208120
Oh! I have those Frye’s! Last set of pictures, third column, second row. In that height and colour and everything. I got them at a consignment shop for 50 bucks, after eyeing the Frye website for months and months and trying to convince myself to spend 200+ on boots. They’re not actually super stompy huge, unlike the rest of the boots in that photo set– they actually make my womens 11 feet look narrow and svelte. I love them tho, I wear them with jeans as soon as the temp starts to drop.
I’m pretty I need most of these shoes in my life.
I have been blessed with large feet and I currently have a beautiful pair of grey suede desert boots, made by hush puppies, that suit my chukka needs (mostly.) I’d also give a shout out to the new line of converse boots, of which I own a pair. They’re warm, waterproof, and still look like converse, just with thick laces and soles.
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